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Reading Your Print

The aim of this page is to give you a few pointers when you find a print is warped or fails to print correctly.

This information is just a starting point.

Resin printers have different challenges to FDM machines, so if you are moving from FDM to DLP/SLA printing try to remember this is a different challenge and experimentation on your part will be required to fine tune any resin printer.

The general perception is that the object should be rock hard when it leaves the printer, this is a misconception. To achieve the hardness, most users are over exposing and then get a light bleed effect. A print should be stable enough to handle with final hardness being achieved during the post curing process.

Light Bleed
This can be a challenge more so for new users as they end up adding more exposure, which in turn just causes more deformation to the print.
As you can see from this image all the blocks have rounded edges, when the correct result of this test print file should be a part with clean faces and sharp edges to all of the slanted cubes. ** Reduce the exposure times to correct this challenge.**

Support Failures
So you have had a print pull away from the support structure which is common if you have a large solid part or if your point size is to small. Orientation plays another challenge - See below for info.

**To resolve this issue one or both of the following can be made, increase the number of supports and increase the size of the points touching the model or hollow out the model to reduce the tension on the part and FEP.**

This will make a difference to how a part prints as distortion can take place with some rectangular shapes, so some experimentation maybe required on your part as all printers can produce different results for the same stl file.

Uneven Light
With some entry level DLP printers they use a small LED panel below the screen which is smaller than the build platform, this will possibly give a brighter center and the UV will drop off as it goes further to the outer edges of the build platform. If you find the print is correct in the center but not on the edges this could be there is no or a poorly calibrated mask setup to balance the light. If this is the challenge you face please see your instruction manual or contact the manufacture for details on setting up and calibrating the mask.

If using a SLA laser printer then you may come across a part with flakes of part cured resin attached to it. Quite often this is due to the light source being blocked, be it the dust on the mirrors or a grease spot. To fix this cleaning of the mirrors may be required.

**Please note that you must follow the manufactures guidelines for cleaning your mirrors**

Top Down Printers
If you use a top down printer you may get an icicle effect when using an unpigmented resin, this is mainly due to the UV light rays continuing to travel through the resin. Any part cured resin will create some fantastic icicle shapes, whilst looking great in a winter scene its probably not what you want attached to your model To fix this you need to use a pigmented resin as this will greatly reduce the travel of the UV rays through the resin.

This is only a very basic guide to help you get started as reading the failed print can be slightly tricky to start with, but once you can see some of the basic issues you will be creating some amazing model.

If you still have any issues please feel free to email us with photos of the failed prints and some settings about the model, and we will do our best to give you a number of pointers to help resolve your challenge.

Have fun printing.

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FTD Resins

Small steam wagon

Fine Detail Resin

Designed for LED/LCD printers

Dental part


Dental resin high & low reactivity

Model Traction Engine

Industrial Blend

Excellent all round resin

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